Iron footbridges, locks and plane trees in the 10th. Here is the walk, and where Paris under 35 eats.
The short version
- The canal runs 4.5 km from the Seine to the Villette basin, underground for the first stretch. The part to walk is above ground, from République north to Jaurès.
- Start on the quai de Valmy near République metro and walk north on one side, back on the other. Cross on the arched iron footbridges.
- The locks are the show. When a barge or a tour boat comes through, stop and watch the water drop; it takes about 15 minutes.
- The Hôtel du Nord at 102 quai de Jemmapes is the one from Marcel Carné’s 1938 film. It is a restaurant and bar now, with the old facade.
- The quays fill on warm evenings and weekends with people sitting on the edge with a bottle. Join them.
- Keep walking north and the canal opens into the Bassin de la Villette, with the Rotonde de la Villette at the south end.
The walk
From République, walk east to the canal at the square Frédérick-Lemaître, where it comes out of its tunnel. Head north up the quai de Valmy: the first two locks and the Passerelle de la Douane are in the first ten minutes, under the plane trees.
Cross at the footbridge by rue de Lancry, the one in every photograph, and come back down the quai de Jemmapes past the Hôtel du Nord. Rue de Lancry and rue Beaurepaire, off the canal, are the shopping streets: small labels, bookshops, coffee.
If you have another hour, continue north past the swing bridge on rue de la Grange-aux-Belles to Jaurès and the Bassin de la Villette, the widest stretch of water in Paris, with the cinemas and the bars along both banks.
Or let us build the day around it: our private Paris walking tour is eight hours with a local guide and the route is yours to set; put the canal in the afternoon, when it is at its best.
Where to eat
The quai de Valmy and rue de Lancry have the cafes, bakeries and the casual places where the neighborhood eats: natural wine bars, Vietnamese and Korean counters, pizza by the slice.
A picnic on the quay is the canal thing to do. Buy bread and cheese on rue du Faubourg-du-Temple and sit on the stone edge by a lock.
For dinner, the streets between the canal and rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis are full of small bistros. Book Friday and Saturday a day ahead.
When to go
A warm weekend afternoon into the evening, when the quays are full and the light is low through the trees. It is the most local scene in central Paris.
A weekday morning if you want the locks and the footbridges to yourself for photographs.
Autumn, when the plane trees turn, is the season. It is outdoors and free, so any day of the year works; it is just less fun in the rain.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where does the Canal Saint-Martin start and end?
It runs 4.5 km from the Bassin de l’Arsenal by the Seine at Bastille to the Bassin de la Villette in the 19th. The southern part runs under the boulevard Richard-Lenoir; the part you walk is above ground, from République north.
Can you take a boat on the canal?
Yes. Canal cruises run between the Arsenal basin at Bastille and the Villette basin, through the locks and the tunnel under the boulevard, in about two and a half hours. They are run by private companies; book ahead in summer.
How long does the Canal Saint-Martin take?
Two hours to walk from République to Jaurès and back on the other bank, with a coffee. An evening if you sit on the quay.
Is the Canal Saint-Martin safe?
Yes, by day and on busy evenings. North of Jaurès toward Stalingrad the streets get rougher late at night, as they do around many big stations.
Is there a tour that covers the canal?
Our half-day Paris walking tour is about three hours with a private guide, start times from 9:00 to 18:00, and the route is set around what you want to see; ask for the canal and the guide builds the walk from République.
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